THE ROSEBUD EGG: A FABERGÉ IMPERIAL EASTER EGG PRESENTEDBY EMPEROR NICHOLAS II TO HIS WIFE THE EMPRESS ALEXANDRA FEODOROVNA AT EASTER 1895,WORKMASTER MICHAEL PERCHIN, ST. PETERSBURG
Enameled
translucent strawberry red over a guilloché ground
and divided into four vertical panels by diamond-set borders,
each panel of the hinged top applied with green gold laurel
wreaths tied with red gold and diamond-set ribbons, each panel
of the lower portion of the egg applied with diamond-set arrows
entwined by green gold laurel garlands tied with red gold ribbons
and pinned by diamonds, the top of the egg mounted with a table
diamond beneath which is set a portrait miniature of Tsar Nicholas
II, the base of the egg enameled with the date 1895 below a
diamond, the egg opening to reveal a velvet-lined interior fitted
with a rosebud with hinged petals enameled yellow and with green
enamel leaves, marked with Cyrillic initials of workmaster,
Fabergé in Cyrillic and assay mark of 56 standard for
14 karat gold. On October 20, 1894, Tsar Alexander
died. Just a few weeks later, on November 14, his son married
Nicholas Alexandra Feodorovna, formerly Princess Alix Victoria
Helene Luise Beatrix of Hesse-Darmstadt. The homesick young
bride missed, among other things, the roses in her homeland.
In Darmstadt, there was a famous rose garden called “Rosenhöhe,”
established in 1810 by Grand Duchess Wilhelmine of Hesse,
Princess of Baden (1788-1836) and designed by the Swiss garden
architect Zeyher. In 1894, Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig, Alexandra's
brother, built the Palais Rosenhöhe there (destroyed
1944) and had the garden redesigned, adding the Rosendom.
To this day, the Rosenhöhe remains one of the most beautiful
rose gardens in Germany. The Rosebud Egg, then,was an ideal
gift for Nicholas to give to his adored wife for their first
Easter together. 1
With its bonbonnière shape, its chased gold
laurel swags, its diamond-set tied ribbons and arrows and
its red guilloché enamel ground, the egg is
a perfect rendition of an eighteenth-century symbol of Love.
The Rosebud Egg is also the quintessence of Fabergé's
new Neo-Classical style. Neoclassicism, inspired by Antiquity,
was developed during the reign of Louis XVI as a reaction
against the exuberant Rococo idiom of the Louis XV period.
As in the case of the eighteenth century, nineteenth century
Neo-Classicism followed the Neo-Rococo of the 1880s and is
best seen in Michael Perchin's early work for the Fabergé
firm. In Paris the new Neo-Classical style was embraced by
those few who eschewed the all-powerful influence of Art Nouveau.
The two contrasting styles of Neo-Classicism and of Art Nouveau
are clearly represented in the oeuvre of the great firms of
Cartier and Lalique. On one hand, Cartier, ensconced in the
firm's new rue de la Paix premises, did not exhibit at the
1900 Exposition Universelle and totally negated the
much fêted symbolist movement. On the other hand stood
the extraordinary series of jewels created by Lalique for
Calouste Gulbenkian, shown to much public acclaim at the 1900
World Fair. The light touch and elegance of Cartier's novel
Neo-Classical style was underlined by the firm's use of platinum,
a Cartier innovation. Even contemporary music, such as Debussy's
Pelleas et Mélisande of 1900-1902, reflects
the influence of Neo-Classicism.
The floral form of the surprise is an eighteenth-century concept
continued into the nineteenth century. Such enameled flowers,
popular at the time as watch-cases or perfume bottles, were
generally produced in Geneva. A Swiss rose with spring-loaded
pink enamel petals opening to show a watch was made in Geneva
in the 1830s . 2 Fabergé's
yellow rose originally opened to reveal a crown containing
a pear-shaped ruby pendant as further symbols of Imperial
authority and of Love.
This egg is listed on Fabergé's invoice as:
“31 March. Red enamel egg with crown. St. Petersburg,May
9, 1895 3250 r.” 3
The Rosebud Egg, the first Imperial Easter Egg received
by the new Empress, was kept by her, along with all the early
Fabergé Easter eggs, in a corner cabinet of the Imperial
couple's private apartment at the Winter Palace, between a
door leading into the bedroom and a window. There the egg
and its surprise were minutely described in 1909 by the Inspector
of Premises of the Imperial Winter Palace as containing “
an Imperial crown entirely made of rose-cut diamonds with
two cabochon rubies . ” 4
The Rosebud Egg was first exhibited in 1935 in London as owned
by a Mr. Parsons, still containing its surprise of a diamond-set
crown with a pendant ruby. In 1953 Kenneth Snowman included
an archival photograph of it and listed its current whereabouts
as unknown. Lost for four decades, rumor had it that the egg
had been seriously damaged, if not destroyed, in a marital
dispute. Telltale damage to the enamel (expertly repaired
since) enabled Malcolm Forbes, who acquired the egg in 1985
from the Fine Art Society, London, to ascertain the egg's
authenticity.
NOTES
1. Apparently yellow was
the most prized color for a rose in the Darmstadt garden.
2. Osvaldo Patrizzi and Fabienne
Sturm, Montres de Fantaisie 1790-1850 , Geneva, 1979.
3. Fabergé/Proler/Skurlov
1997.
4.
Op. cit. (Archive of the Hermitage, Stock I, inventoryVIII-G,
file 7b, nr. 195).
|